Small-scale muscovado production in the Canlaon foothills. In Canlaon, the mountain city on Kanlaon’s slopes, the highest farming country on the island. Muscovado is whole-cane sugar boiled down and dried with the molasses left in — brown, damp, faintly smoky, nothing like refined white. Producers here work in open pans at small scale. Buy it in blocks or loose by the kilo where it’s made; it costs more than white sugar and is worth the difference.