Sugarcane growing area in the Bago plains. In Bago, a rice-plain city just south of Bacolod, where the lowland grain belt meets the sugar estates. Muscovado is whole-cane sugar boiled down and dried with the molasses left in — brown, damp, faintly smoky, nothing like refined white. Producers here work in open pans at small scale. Buy it in blocks or loose by the kilo where it’s made; it costs more than white sugar and is worth the difference.