Dining corridor that adds an urban food-culture layer to a whole-island map. In Bacolod, the provincial capital and the island’s biggest market city, on the northwest coast. Public markets here run hardest before 8am, when the night’s catch is in and upland produce has just come down; by late morning it’s mostly dry goods and leftovers. Prices are negotiable in the wet and dry sections. Worth a stop for muscovado, tablea and native sweets at market rather than shop prices — bring small notes and your own bag.