Traditional muscovado-linked sugarcane farms near Manapla. In Manapla, a small northern sugar town known for muscovado and for its puto. Muscovado is whole-cane sugar boiled down and dried with the molasses left in — brown, damp, faintly smoky, nothing like refined white. Producers here work in open pans at small scale. Buy it in blocks or loose by the kilo where it’s made; it costs more than white sugar and is worth the difference.