Victorias Milling Company — one of the largest sugar mills in the Philippines, defining the daily rhythm of the surrounding barangays. In Victorias, a northern mill town whose rhythm is set by Victorias Milling Company. Muscovado is whole-cane sugar boiled down and dried with the molasses left in — brown, damp, faintly smoky, nothing like refined white. Producers here work in open pans at small scale. Buy it in blocks or loose by the kilo where it’s made; it costs more than white sugar and is worth the difference.